Support Questions Ask a Question. TR10 Torx Security Screwdriver. Phillips 1 Screwdriver. Phillips 2 Screwdriver. T15 Torx Screwdriver. Background and Identification. Additional Information. View Statistics: Past 24 Hours: G5 powers on, fans run at high speed, nothing else. The drive will move part way out of the media shelf. Route the drive ribbon cable out through the opening in the media shelf and remove the drive and ribbon cable from the computer.
If you are replacing the drive with a new drive, do the following: Transfer the cable to the top of the replacement drive, and connect the cable to the drive. Reusable adhesive tape on the underside of the cable attaches the cable to the drive. When removing the cable from the original drive, be careful to keep the tape with the cable.
Insert the optical drive part way into the optical drive bay, and connect the power cable to the drive. Then bend down the free end of the ribbon cable, route it through the opening at the back of the media shelf, and connect the cable to the logic board. Preliminary Steps Before you begin, open the computer and lay it on its side with the access side facing up. Hold the front inlet fan assembly by the front handle and firmly pull it out of the computer. To replace the front inlet fan bracket in the enclosure, align the large rail on the bracket with the cutout in the PCI divider and press firmly.
Make sure the connector on the fan fully engages the fan connector on the logic board, or the computer will not operate properly. Gently pull the fan assembly to test whether it is connected. The slots are arranged in two banks of four slots each. DIMMs in these two slots first. DIMMs are already installed in these two slots. If slots are available, and you want to install more memory, install additional DIMMs in a similar fashion: In pairs, one per bank, from the center outward.
Preliminary Steps Before you begin, open the computer, lay it on its side with the access side facing up, and remove the front inlet fan assembly. Locate the DIMM slots on the logic board. Open the ejectors on the DIMM slot by pushing them out to the sides. Holding the DIMM by both top corners, lift it straight up out of the computer. The computers come with a high-performance lane 16x PCI Express graphics card installed in slot 1. You can install additional PCI Express cards in slots 2—4. Install a second card in slot 3, a third in slot 4, and a fourth in slot 2 to take advantage of the bus bandwidth of each slot.
Before installing a card, check the specifications to make sure it can operate in the Power Mac G5 Late When certain high-end video cards are installed in slot 1, they block the adjacent PCI Express slot slot 2. As a result, you can install PCI Express cards in slots 3 and 4 but not in slot 2. The maximum bus width for each PCI Express slot is marked on the card guide.
Slot 4 is a 4-lane 4x slot, slot 3 is an 8-lane 8x slot, slot 2 is a 4-lane 4x slot, and slot 1 is a lane 16x slot. Combined maximum power consumption for all four expansion slots should not exceed W. While all slots can accommodate PCI Express cards that have up to lanes, if you install a card that requires a greater bandwidth than the slot provides, the card will operate at the bandwidth of the slot. For example, an 8x card installed in a 4x slot will operate as a 4x card.
Refer to the following table for details. Install other PCI Express cards in the slots labeled 2, 3, and 4. When removing or installing a card, handle it only by the edges. Do not touch its connectors or any of the components on the card. Lift the card straight out from the connector to remove it, and insert it straight into the connector to install it.
Once the replacement card is installed, pull on it gently to check that it is properly connected. Remove the screw that mounts the card to the enclosure. If you are removing a video card, pull back the small locking clip at the front of the connector. Holding the card by the top corners, gently pull up the card and remove it from its expansion slot. If you meet a lot of resistance, pull the card out. Check the connector and the slot for damage or obstructions, then try inserting the card again. If it resists and stays in place, and if its gold connectors are barely visible, the card is connected.
Remove the two screws that mount the card to the enclosure. Disconnect the Quadro FX cable from the card. When replacing the Quadro FX card, position the card over the slot by carefully aligning the end of the card in the first slot in the PCI card guide and the two screw holes in the card fence with the first two PCI card screw holes in the enclosure.
Then press down. Remove the Quadro FX card from the enclosure refer to preceding steps. Locate the PCI card guide. Remove the two screws that mount the PCI card guide to the logic board. Slide the card guide up to release the two latches from the PCI divider, and remove the card guide from the enclosure. Disconnect the Quadro FX cable from the logic board and remove the cable from the enclosure.
Tools No tools are required for this procedure. You may, however, find a flat-blade screwdriver useful in removing the battery from its holder. If necessary, carefully spread the two tabs holding the battery. Remove the battery from its holder. Installing the battery incorrectly may cause an explosion. Use only the same type of battery or an equivalent recommended by the manufacturer of the original.
Batteries contain chemicals, some of which may be harmful to the environment. Please dispose of used batteries according to your local environmental laws and guidelines. The combo card is connected to an adapter card called the runway card. This procedure includes steps for removing both the combo and runway cards. However, if you are replacing just the combo card, it is not necessary to remove the runway card from the enclosure.
Disconnect the combo card antennas from the clip on the side of the PCI divider. Disconnect the combo card from the runway card and lift up a short distance. Disconnect the two antenna cables from the card and remove the card from the enclosure. The runway card is attached to the PCI divider by two black rivets.
You must remove the rivets before disconnecting the card from the logic board. Using a Xacto knife, pry up and remove the center plug of the first black rivet. Then pry up and remove the outer casing for the rivet. Repeat for the second rivet. Holding the runway card by its top edge, pull straight up to disconnect the card from the logic board. Preliminary Steps Before you begin, open the computer, lay it on its side with the access side facing up, and remove any inch graphics or PCI Express cards. Preliminary Steps Before you begin, open the computer, lay it on its side with the access side facing up, and remove the following: Disconnect the speaker and fan cables from the logic board.
Be careful that the fan and speaker cables do not catch on the PCI divider as you lift the assembly. Locate the ambient board connected to the logic board. Position your fingers on both sides of the board.
Power Mac G5 Repair - iFixit
Gently rock the board from side-to-side, pulling it straight up and out of the connector. Locate the locking rivet that secures the processor heatsink cover to the PCI divider. Using a Xacto knife, pry up and remove the plug at the center of the locking rivet. For Power Mac G5 Late Dual computers, you do not need to replace the rivet after you have replaced the heatsink cover.
Extra rivets are available as part number Slide the cover to the left to unlatch the four metal latches under the cover. Then lift the cover up and off the heatsink. Place the notches in the underside of the cover directly over the four mounting pegs. Slide the cover toward the back of the computer and then press down firmly until you feel the cover lock into place. Tools The only tools required for this procedure are a Phillips 1 screwdriver and a flatblade screwdriver.
If you are replacing the rear exhaust fans with new fans, you will also need needlenose pliers. Disconnect the fan cable from the logic board. Press the cable connector up toward the media shelf when disconnecting the cable. Press down on the two tabs on the top of the fan bracket to release the two latches.
Lift the fan bracket and fans out of the enclosure. If you are replacing the fans on a Power Mac G5 Late Quad computer, use needlenose pliers to pull each fan off the four grommets that mount it to the bracket, and remove the fans and cable from the bracket. Then install the replacement fans in the bracket, using the grommets included with the fans. Then rotate the fan back flush with the rear panel, making sure the two latches on the top of the bracket engage with the two slots on the top of the fan guide. Using a flatblade screwdriver, tuck the fan cable under the edge of the logic board.
Tools The only tools required for this procedure are a Phillips 1 screwdriver and Xacto knife. Before you can remove the card from the PCI divider, you must remove both rivets and disconnect the card from the logic board. You do not, however, have to remove the runway card or combo card from the enclosure.
Using a Xacto knife, pry up and remove the center of the first black rivet that mounts the runway card to the PCI divider. Remove the combo card antenna cables from the clip on the side of the PCI divider. Set the runway card with combo card attached to the side. There is no need to remove the runway card from the enclosure.
Remove the processor heatsink cable from the clip on the PCI divider. Remove the three black PCI divider mounting screws. Align the PCI divider on the logic board by placing it over the runway card connector. Be sure to replace the processor heatsink cable in the clip on the PCI divider. Tools The only tool required for this procedure is a short-handled or right-angle Phillips 2 screwdriver.
Disconnect the media bay fan cable from the logic board. Remove the two media bay fan mounting screws. Rotate the fan counterclockwise. Route the fan cable out through the opening in the media bay shelf and remove the fan from the media bay. After placing the fan in the media bay, make sure the tabs on the bottom of the fan engage with the slots in the media bay shelf. Then rotate the fan clockwise back into position. Lift the processor inlet frame off the processor.
Remove the frame from the enclosure. If you are replacing the processor inlet frame with a new inlet frame on the Power Mac G5 Late Dual 2. Before installing the frame, apply the label to the frame as illustrated below. Tools The only tools required for this procedure are a long-handled 3 mm flathead hex driver and a long-handled 4 mm ballhead hex driver.
Using a long-handled 3 mm flathead hex driver, remove the six processor mounting screws. Four long screws mount the upper platform and two short screws mount the power supply terminal on the level below. Insert a long-handled 4 mm ballhead hex driver into the two holes on the top of the heatsink and loosen but do not remove the two captive screws. The heatsink and processor are one unit.
Do not attempt to separate the heatsink from the processor. If you are replacing the processor with a new processor, do the following: Tilting the processor could damage the heatsink seal. Lower the processor over the processor standoffs, and press down on the metal platform to make sure the processor is connected to the logic board. Gently rock the heatsink until it feels seated.
For steps 3—6, remove or loosen the screws in the order indicated in the illustrations. Insert a long-handled 4 mm ballhead hex driver into the two holes on the top of the heatsink and tighten the two captive screws. Using a long-handled 3 mm flathead hex driver, replace the two short screws that mount the power supply terminal. Using a long-handled 3 mm flathead hex driver, replace the four long processor mounting screws.
Replace the processor inlet frame on the front of the heatsink.
Replace the heatsink cover. Replace the rear exhaust fan assembly. Replace all graphics and PCI Express cards. Replace the front inlet fan assembly. Whenever you replace a processor with a new processor, you must run Apple Service Diagnostic once the computer is reassembled.
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There are two versions of the Quad processor. While your processor may look different from the one in the photos, the take-apart steps for both versions are similar. Any differences are called out in the procedure that follows. Remove the processor support bar cable from the clip on the PCI divider. For Version 2 of the processor, see steps Using a 3 mm flathead hex driver, loosen the four captive float plate screws.
Do not remove the captive screws from their standoffs. Using a 3 mm flathead hex driver, remove the four short screws that mount the two processor terminal assemblies. Using a 4 mm ballhead hex driver, loosen the four captive screws near the middle of the processor.
For steps , remove or loosen the screws in the order indicated in the illustrations. For Version 1 of the processor, see steps Version 1 Processor Note: For replacement procedures for Version 2 of the processor, see steps Lower the processor over the processor standoffs.
Press down on the middle bridge of the heatsink to make sure the processor is connected to the logic board. For steps 4—7, replace or tighten the screws in the order indicated in the illustrations. Using a 4 mm ballhead hex driver, tighten the four captive screws near the middle of the processor.
Using a 3 mm flathead hex driver, replace the four short screws that mount the two processor terminal assemblies. Using a 3 mm flathead hex driver, replace the six long processor mounting screws. Reconnect the processor support bar cable with the processor cable. Replace the processor support bar cable in the clip on the PCI divider. Replace the processor inlet frame assembly on the front of the heatsink.
If you are replacing the processor with a new processor, be sure to use the inlet frame included with the replacement processor.
For replacement procedures for Version 1 of the processor, see steps For steps 16—19, replace or tighten the screws in the order indicated in the illustrations. Although the Power Mac G5 Late Dual support bar cable differs from the Quad cable it has two connectors rather than three , the take-apart procedure for all configurations is primarily the same.
Remove the two mounting screws from the processor support bar.
Disconnect the processor support bar cable from the logic board. Power Mac G5 Late Quad: If necessary, remove the processor support bar cable from the clip on the PCI divider. Depress the two clips on either side of the front inlet fan connector and remove the connector from the support bar. Unclip the cable from the support bar and remove the cable from the bar. Disconnect the power button cable from the front panel board.
Remove the two front panel board mounting screws. Gently pull the board back from the front panel, tip the back of the board up so that it clears the DIMM slot ejectors, and remove the board from the enclosure. If you are replacing the front panel board with a new board, carefully remove the EMI shield from the original board and transfer it to the replacement board. Make sure that the fingers of the shield enclose the board as shown in the illustration below. When replacing the front panel board, align the ports on the board with the openings in the front panel board.
Then press the board firmly to the enclosure. Lay the computer so that the front panel is facing down. Remove the black rubber cap that covers the power button LED. Remove the metal activation ring that lies below the power button board. Tools The following tools are required for this procedure: Disconnect the cables from the top and bottom edge of the logic board. Using a Phillips 1 screwdriver, remove the three black logic board mounting screws. Move the cables and processor power terminal assemblies out of the way. Then carefully slide the logic board to the left to release it from the three mushroom-head standoffs.
Tilt the logic board up and maneuver it out of the enclosure, making sure the ports clear the enclosure openings. Perform the following procedures only if you are replacing the logic board with a new logic board. Transfer the following from the original logic board to the replacement board: Transfer the port EMI shield from the original logic board to the replacement logic board, making sure the shield is fully seated on the ports. Before you install a replacement logic board, remove the protective clips and caps circled in the illustration below and transfer them to the logic board you are returning to Apple.
Do not remove the mylar sheet from the board. Temporarily tuck the top cables into the openings in the media shelf so that they are out of the way. Also tape or hold the bottom cables out of the way. You may find a long strip of packing tape useful in securing the cables. Angle the logic board into the enclosure so that the port edge goes in first. Be careful not to catch the battery on the edge of the case as you lower the logic board into the enclosure. Also make sure the connector ends of the antenna cables are not caught under the board. Position the logic board on the three mushroom-head standoffs, aligning the ports with the openings in the enclosure.
Slide the board toward the rear of the computer so that the logic board locks onto the mushroom-head standoffs and the ports are fully seated in the back panel openings. Replace the three logic board screws and six standoffs in the order indicated below. There are two versions of the power supply, one with two processor power terminal assemblies and the other with just one processor power terminal assembly. In either case, make sure the rear standoffs are threaded through the power terminal rings before you insert the standoffs into the logic board.
Replace the nine power supply bus bar screws. Reconnect all cables at the top and bottom edge of the logic board. Replace the PCI divider. Replace the front panel board. Replace the PCI card guide. Replace the rear exhaust fan assembly and reconnect its cable to the logic board. Replace the processor support bar and reconnect the processor support bar cable to the logic board. Replace the processor. I could have resolved this G5 flakiness a lot sooner if I'd been able to get that heatsink cover off the first time I tried it.
Hook a makeshift shoulder strap on your G5 if you have to carry it into a mall-based Apple Store. It makes the trip easier, and gets you a lot of surprised looks as you walk down the aisles with the oddest of shoulder bags. Do not let Apple tell you this was a problem two or three years ago, but they're not addressing it any more.
They know they have a problem with these things even if you have to poke them a bit to make good on it. This is why I've repeatedlty said here I wish apple would post some official policy on Leak repairs. After 2 years though I've almost given up on that wish - but am thankful that many times they have covered it. And not just the owners that sent their experience - some didn't want to have their story made public. My story is similar to most here. My G5 2. All I got was the sleep light on permanently. With the machine being a June and knowing that it now being November , warranty was not even a consideration.
The local shop told me to forget it as repairs would run as much as a replacement machineI resigned my G5 to the cupboard, not wanting to give up just yet. After coming across articles regarding iMac main board issues and folk who had repaired them I thought I'd see if anyone was doing the same for the Powermacs. It was during this search I came across this site. I read each post and was nearly giddy with the possibility that I might get the G5 back up and running. I opened the side and removed the heat-sink cover and low and behold, green stains. I had not noticed any external signs of leaking so the though never even crossed my mind.
I was not the original owner as is the same for others posted here and I was taking nothing for granted but I crossed my fingers and called Apple Care. I explained how the machine had behaved and what I had found I also mentioned in am FYI non threatening, by-the-way, manor that I had come across some mention online that others had experienced the same issues and had been lucky enough to get some help as far as repairs. He listened and seemed to be taking notes and then asked me if I wouldn't mind holding. On his return he told me he was passing me to a second level tech who would get further details of this issue.
The next person I spoke with asked me how long I had had the machine and when the trouble had started and asked me to verify the symptoms and the physical damage I had seen. I described the green stains running down the heat-sink where in meets the processors and the damp feeling to the ambient pad. He asked if I could take some photos to clarify my description, three in total, one of the unit as a whole and two of the stains. He said that once he had the pictures it would be up-to about 5 days before I heard anything.
I sent the pictures that afternoon and waited. He told me that the engineers agreed that this was indeed a coolant leak, that they were dealing with these cases each on their own merits and in my case Apple were going to authorize the repair of my machine under warranty.
He told me to remove any 3rd party memory as it would not be covered. He asked me where I would like to take the machine and when. He then set up the appointment with the Apple store near me, gave me a reference number and told me he had spoken to them and they were up to speed with the case but to call him if there were any issues. When I got to the store I spoke with a very polite and friendly "Genius" who, after a few short questions and some deliberation, informed me that they had no memory to test the machine with, that this was more than likely and major repair running over the cost of a new machine and could take some time to complete, and bearing all this in mind he said he was going to swap the unit out for another product if that was alright with me.
There was no brain time expended on that one, so minus the box I received a new base model Mac Pro with a years warranty. All hail the mighty Apple, why on earth would I buy anything else after that. As long as they stand by their products like that I'll keep buying them, I don't know of many companies that will fix a 5 year old machine for free let alone replace it even if it was a design issue.
O-rings leak, pumps fail eventually in anything , although in these cases often it's not detected until major damage is done. I did email my Apple guy and thank him very much, as I thank the entire Apple corporation for doing a nice thing and making my Christmas extra special. Happy New Year -Nic C. It's a case by case basis decision apparently. I keep hoping eventually that Apple will post some official policy on Coolant Leaks.
As some owners have not had an easy time trying to get repairs covered in the past. Our computer began acting odd at the beginning of last week. Fans ramping up, long tone at start up etc. Throughout the week it kept getting worse and by the end of the week it would not even boot up. Tried all the tricks to get it to book and nothing. Took the unit to our local MAC service center and he said he could see right away that there was corrosion on the bottom of the computer which was a result from the coolant pump on the processor card leaking coolant.
A little side bar, we are not the original owner and when Apple looked up the computer it had been de-activated by the university that was the original owner. An earlier report on a free repair also noted he was not the original owner - which surprised me. Try getting a years out of warranty report LCS or otherwise from other mfrs even as original owner -Mike No Apple Care and no remaining warrantee on the computer.
Apple must realize they have a design flaw in the liquid cooled processors and are standing by their name and reputation by taking care of their faithful computer owners. I explained to him what was happening and what my service tech had found. They forwarded my call to a product specialist who put me on hold and called my MAC service provider. A couple minutes later he came back on the line and said it would be repaired for us at no charge. They are replacing the processor card LCP type again , the logic card as well as the power supply since the coolant had leaked down on and into the power supply.
I am told that the repairs will be completed by the end of this week. I kept on calling the store every day asking "is it there yet" like a little kid. About a month ago it started acting up, the usual for this problem! At first I didn't know what the problem was, so I tried the usual p-ram and even the reset button by the ram on the motherboard. I also swapped ram sticks I had four 1GB sticks but nothing would work.
I was debating to sell it for parts or build a system on the same case I know a lot of case modifying but I was desperate. I knew the power supply was still working cuz I could hear the fans. But no chime! On my last try of getting it to boot up, I put it on its side and moved the ram around for the last time hopping for some sign of life when I finally set it up and was getting ready to press the power button I saw a small amount of liquid on the rear bottom leg As soon as I mention green liquid he told me to hold and got his supervisor with in a few minutes.
I explained to him the problem and he asked me a series of questions I don't exactly recall but something about If there was any personal or property damage. After all that, he told me he would contact the Engineering Department to know how to proceed. A couple of business days later he called me back and told me to take it in to one of the stores he made the appointment for the next day. At the store the Genius asked me what the problem was, he saw some of the liquid and proceeded to order the parts.
I just got back from picking up the computer and everything seems to be working great. I dropped the computer at the store Nov 5th and the fix was done on the 11th six days later. I picked it up on the 12th. But they had originally quoted 7 or more days. Sorry if I wrote a big e-mail, but just wanted to be specific about the process since it help me calm me down reading other people experiences! One more time Thank you for keeping the site running, and updated And a last thank you to Apple for covering the fix after 5 years of service 2 years after Apple care had expired.
A great way on keeping their customers happy and coming back! I am so glad that I found your site it wasn't hard as it is at the top of a search for G5 coolant leak! Instead I decided to cut to the chase and call tech support and tell them I have an unresolved issue with a repair and that I wanted to talk to Customer Relations.
I was connected and spoke with someone there. I told him my problem nicely and asked him what should I do after 3 Geniuses looked at the G5 and found no leak. I mentioned the safety issue and said that I felt like asking the geniuses if I brought it home and plugged it in I can be sure that I wouldn't get electrocuted because they are sure there is no coolant in there.
I told him I also asked if they checked the power supply and they said no it is sealed. I asked if they ran the coolant system or checked the levels -no. Asked what they checked and they couldn't say. He put me on hold and then came back and told me they would extend my warranty and cover any repairs needed.
Shortly after I got a call and was told that the leak and damage was so bad that they decided to give me a quad-core Mac Pro. I have no problem obviously with how they handled this in the end, but it was a foggy course. I hope this helps someone else. And again thanks Mike. I keep hoping one day Apple will post an official policy on these leaks. I've been a fan for a long time since the Quadra era and you have consistently provided a wealth of information for us geekier-than-average Mac users. We have three PowerMac G5 2. Two are sitting upright in our studio and one is rack mounted on its side, and travels frequently.
About two years ago January 07 we had our first coolant leak. We had just come back from the holidays and discovered the machine had a gooey green puddle underneath it. Long story short, I read your site and took our grievance to Apple. What followed was several hours of persistent head-banging followed by thinly veiled threats.
Eventually the specialist s ran out of steam and escalated the case to the proper person, who finally offered to repair the machine at no cost to us. This story comes secondhand from my assistant--he was a trooper. About a week later we had a new motherboard, 2 processors and power supply. That machine has been running fine since then, although I have noticed recently that the processor temps run consistently in the F range when under load.
Cooked the power supply and a processor, but fortunately didn't leak outside the case. I called Apple, who asked me to take it to a local repair shop for diagnosis. The diagnosis confirmed coolant leak. Called Apple back to discuss. My experience was markedly different; everyone I spoke to was courteous and sympathetic. I politely pointed out the encyclopedia of cases documented on your site, which caused them to immediately escalate the case.
I went through a few more layers of specialists before ending up with one who started asking pertinent questions as seen here: I gently suggested that some other customers had been able to get repairs done. Once he had all the information he needed, he told me that I would hear from him in a few days. Our third machine has been flawless so far hardware at least The only discrepancy is the number of operating hours. Again, a huge thank you to you and your site. Without this information we would have given up hope of maintaining these machines a long time ago.
Best, Alex L. Stewart Levin Productions, Inc. English not native language "I found this site by googling my problem. The problem is a leak in my G5 dual2. It all started with a call to apple support to ask for a quote on the cost to repair the computer, or cost of repair parts, or what it also was to be the problem.
The were so kind to tell me at once that they will fix my compuer for free, it really triggered me to hear that - so it got repaired, they replaced nery everything inside the computer except the harddrives. However, it took me 5 days to wait for the repair to be done, I'am a photographer and normaly I have an insurance which covers incidents like this that I can rent a temporarly computer to work on so I can deliver the jobs to my own clients. However, despite to my insurance company they claimed a force majeur that a rental computer will not be covered as it it is clearly Apple's resonsibility due a mfg fault once and my insurance company claimed that they do not wish at all to have my computer covered in my insurance and that Apple shall replace it to a new one instead.
I quoted all this to Apple and they do not want to help me any further then the repair they did, the repair was appreciated but in the end it came down to be a huge cost to me, rental computer for a 5 days with the Adobe CS package were very expensive - an excuse to my clients on that I can not deliver at the does not exist. And a computer that my innsurance company do not what to cover any more in the future happenings with it. It is off course a computer that's 4 years old, but I do have a dell computer 10 years old or plus give a few years which I run my accounting on, I didn't pay that much for the Dell - and the dell still runs flawless free of error.
Is there anything of knowledge and experience you guys can help me with to solve this with Apple!? Kind Regards, Patrick Sweden " I really don't know anything to suggest if your insurance doesn't cover this sort of thing. Saw your reports of G5's leaking and I was keeping a good eye on mine because with my luck I knew it was only a matter of time before it would go.
I bought it new in August of and received shipment in September. Over the years it has had extra ram installed 6. It's running Tiger About a month ago it started acting up a bit, it started crashing when I was doing more than one thing at a time, and hanging in many different applications. A log out and back in or a re start fixed the issue every time. Then about two weeks ago it wouldn't reboot.
It would bong, but no boot screen. I sent it over to an Apple Care place to be checked out as I couldn't see any liquid leaking inside. They had it for two days and said they couldn't find any problems with it. It passed all the Hardware tests. I asked them to leave it on for a few hours and see if they could get it to lock up. I told my boss to go get it because it would be cheaper to just buy a new one. After the G5 was back I had another look at it. It booted up fine and seemed to run ok after I removed 6 gigs of Ram. It would restart no problem. I put the Ram back in and no restart!
So I called the place I bought the Ram and was sent new Ram. I put that Ram in and again no boot. Next I put in a new battery. It booted right up even with that Ram I thought was bad in it. So now I was thinking maybe just a battery? I ran it like that for a few days with no problems. Then I had to restart to clear out the font caches and it wouldn't reboot.
I opened up the side and took out the battery, replaced it after a few minutes and tried to boot it. It booted right up! So for the next few days anytime I needed to reboot I shut down, removed the battery and it restarted no problem. Then on Monday of this week after a shutdown it wouldn't restart no matter what I did.
So I opened it up and still couldn't see anything leaking. I removed the processor shroud and there it was, a small pool of a light green liquid. The next day we got a call telling us to take it in to get it repaired for free! I still can't believe it! Apple has got to be the best company I've ever had the pleasure of doing business with, and I will let everyone who asks where to buy from to go Apple! Thanks again for this site Mike, this isn't the first time it has helped me out and I'm sure not the last.
Mike K. You can add my G5 dual 2. Mine had been showing most of the same symptoms the others had shown; extremely loud fan, would not sleep and would run all night with loud noises if I didn't shut I down, would shut down unexpectedly, occasionally would not boot up again, etc I shut down, and opened the machine looking for a leak but saw none. I did not turn it on it's side at that time as I was afraid if it leaked I might damage the hard drives. Upon plugging it in again and trying to restart, I had no power, no noise at all. Upon setting it on their counter, the liquid began dripping out of the bottom.
After opening it, you could now see corrosion on the bottom. The Apple tech was not familiar with coolant leaks so went to ask his manager and call some other Apple Stores. He came back saying there was nothing he could do here, but referred me to customer relations. He wrote up a report stating he saw the leak and corrosion and gave me the number to call. They removed the hard drives for me and I requested to leave it at the store as I didn't want to haul the dripping liquid machine in my car. Do you know anything about those? From what I have read online, Only 2. I'm wondering if they are planning to put in a slower processor as well.
I have been battling with them for almost a month. The latest offer is to choose between: Plus Aperature. G5 fails to boot due to coolant corrosion-caused PSU failure. Pictures at http: I wrote him to ask if the repair was covered Yes. Apple repaired the G5 at no cost. The power supply and CPUs were replaced. Fairly prompt: Fortunately, based on the information you've posted here at xlr8yourmac, I was able to get the machine fixed at no charge.
My story is very similar to others - the machine had been showing signs of the problem before final failure - fans running at high speed, etc. However, after returning from a vacation, I found the mac would no longer turn on. Opened up the side panel, and sure enough - there were clear signs of corrosion. After finding the information on this site, I gave Apple a call to see if I could get my machine fixed.
Here's my experience from the phone call - the first level tech who was very friendly, and wanted to help was insisting that I take my mac into an Apple store to have them diagnose the problem. I reassured him that it was a very clear case of the liquid cooling system failing, and that there was coolant and corrosion below the processors. I also relayed to him that I had heard of owners of other machines speaking with product specialists and in turn engineers , and being authorized to have warranty repairs completed as an exception.
He agreed that he wanted to get my call to a level 2 specialist, and began looking for the verbiage that would allow him to do that. This next part it's been mentioned here before, but I thought it would be good to highlight was important - after looking, he had no way of telling the system that I had a coolant leak - the closest he could come in diagnosis was to say 'power supply failure', and since my system's serial fell outside of the PS repair program, he couldn't escalate my case. After talking for a few more minutes, his supervisor whom he had been talking to, on and off, trying to find a way to escalate within the normal system came back with the news - since I had coolant leaking again, this was the most important part of the process , the problem could be classified as a health and safety issue, which results in the immediate escalation to a product specialist.
Just be polite and calm, and if you mention you feel that you have a health and safety issue again, they were kind enough to do it for me on this call , you should be good to go. As soon as I got on the line with the product specialist, it was a matter of minutes before he called the engineering department for authorization to fix the machine under a warranty exception. In my case, I called late enough in the day that the engineers weren't still at work, and I had to wait for a call back at this point.
A few days later, I called Apple back up, and was transferred to the engineering department the engineer apologized for not calling back sooner - it sounds like they normally try to call within a day of getting the request , and was informed that Apple would repair my G5 at no cost to me. I scheduled an appointment at my 'local' Apple store about an hour and 15 minutes away , and took my heavy G5 in for service. They asked a few redundant questions in store like - what do you think the problem is with this mac , opened up the machine, and saw the corrosion.
They went ahead and ordered parts on the spot, including a new motherboard, new processors including LCS , new power supply, and in my case, due to the corrosion, a new enclosure. They estimated days for the repair. Fast forward to 6 days later. I called to check my repair status, and was informed that the last piece had shown up that day the new enclosure , but that they were waiting on a call back from engineering before proceeding which struck me as odd. I was very pleased to say the least , and we walked through what options I still needed installed as extras at no charge to match my original build.
They've ordered the new mac, and it should arrive at their store within the week for me to pick up. A few quick notes on the whole process - I was not the original owner of the G5 which is why I was not expecting much to come from the call I did not purchase Applecare for this machine I probably would not have gotten transfered to the level 2 product specialist had it not been for classifying the problem as health and safety The decision of the store to replace my G5 with a Mac Pro was based solely on the amount of corrosion they saw, and getting clearance from a product engineer to make the replacement.
In chatting after the fact with the individual responsible for working on my machine and my thanking him up and down , he said that he really felt it was the right thing for Apple to do - this would lead me to believe that a lot of the decision tree for new vs. But I never once brought up or forced the issue of a replacement myself. So that's my story. And I'm thrilled to be sitting here, waiting for a new Mac Pro to arrive, upgraded at no cost with additional ram and HD space. Many thanks to xlr8yourmac for posting this information, or I would have just assumed the machine was scrap.
I went for a psu reset, nothing. I had to finish a video so in order to take out the hard drive and connect it to another mac, I had to move the tower. I dismantled the processors and indeed the leaking had been going on for some time now. I have a damaged power supply, and some signs of corrosion on it.
What surprises me the most is the amount of cases described on the net regarding these leaks. Apple creates amazing products, but boy do they suck big time for this crap. I spent so much money over 4 years ago and now I can't work, technical assistance in portugal is a joke, most shops are closed during august for holidays, i'm screwed Now, off-course, it's too late and it's a sad day for me and my beloved g5. I wrote to ask if the repairs were covered Not really. Only drawback is that one of the 2. How much more? A post here from from a Quad G5 Dual 2. We fixed it and it's running, not thanks to apple.
Same story as other folks; Cooling fans running hard, then in shut down would not reboot in start up until system cooled, finally coolant leak out bottom of unit. We did not experience dramatic burn out of power supply because the machine was shut down when coolant leaked out. Our first call to dealer tech indicated this would be a very expensive repair out of warranty etc. Called Mac help and reported problem. They fast tracked us into repairs, waived out of warranty repair cost and set us up with the local dealer who wanted to sell us a new machine before.
So far so good. I believe you helped us out of a major expense. Thank you much. Tom V. No coolant leak was initially observed. After a loud "pop" and the smell of burnt components the G5 was "toast" and coolant was clearly observed. At a local Apple Store I was helped by a very efficient Apple 'Genius' and after consultation with his store manager I was informed that repairs would be completed at no cost. The repair invoice listed the following: Power supply, Logic Board H, Multiprocessor 2. Apple displayed laudatory customer service--thank you Apple!
After a week of sporadic behavior my my dual 2. It had the original Delphi cooling system and apparently had a slow leak that toasted the processors, power supply and logic board. Not really what I was hoping for and it doesn't give a lot of hope for the other G5 in my office. I'm not stuck on Mac's so after this little disaster and lack of support this will be the last desktop or laptop system I get from Apple. I understand machines break down but the repair costs are outrageous. Some have mentioned repair prices near the price of a new Mac Pro system.
It was purchased Dec of I took it to the local Apple store and they told me that the power supply was bad. They suggested I look at a new Mac, as my G5 was out of warranty. When I asked about the coolant leak and if Apple would cover it at the Apple store, an individual at the store suggested I look at your website. I came across your web page. I called Apple Customer Relations and am now waiting for a response. I am still concerned about how long the replacement will last before it too will fail. Thank you for this web page, as I would not have known about the possibility of having Apple picking up the repairs without it.
Will let you know about the computer after the repairs have been completed. Update - on June 10th he sent a note the repairs were done Apple completed the repairs and the computer is back up and running.
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Thanks for providing the information needed to get Apple to authorize the repairs. There were clunking noises and a very strong smell of smoke. I took it to an Apple repairer. I was told the processor coolant leaked onto the mother board and then short circuited the power supply. Cost to replace parts and repair: I rang Apple and they initially told me they hadn't heard of this problem!!!
I asked to speak to the manager. I looked on the internet and saw many others had the same problems I really appreciate your site!!! I wasn't at all happy with that offer. That's great but I'm concerned that if it is just repaired, because of it's design, it's just a matter of time before it could do it again. The product has a design problem and should've been recalled and fixed. Apple have been very pleasant to deal with but have only acted after my determined persistance. They obviously recognise the design problem but will only do something about it after you persist.
I tried very hard to get the machine replaced so that this wouldn't happen again but after significant effort they refused to budge on their offer to repair it at no cost to me so that's what I accepted. Many thanks to your site for airing the concerns of many regarding this particular model. Regards, Paul" As I've said before - components eventually fail including mechanical ones like o-rings, pumps, etc. As mentioned in many reports here since Aug - some have had to push not give up to get a repair covered, others not.
Power Mac G5 Repair
We decided to wait on repairs and set it aside. At the time I did not notice any leaks. Today I went to borrow the gfx card from it and saw it leaking an oily, rusty colored fluid, unlike the green cooling liquid others have seen. I can only surmise that it had been leaking internally for some time and the coolant had wither oxidized or damaged other internal parts which changes the color of the coolant. Since the unit is nearly 4 years old, there is no point in repairing it.
Just thought I would add to the archives. After a few phone calls to Apple describing the leak, they agreed to repair the G5 out of warranty, and replaced power supply, logic board, processor even put everything in a new enclosure. Basically a brand new unit. Thanks to you and Apple! This is from apple: The computer is "Beyond Economical Repair" meaning it is cheaper to purchase a new computer. I'm sorry to be the bearer of bad news How would you like to move forward? Apple repaired it for free! I couldn't get a new Intel, but fixing for free is pretty good: Thanks for your continued support of the Mac community.
My June PowerMac G5 2. They charged me their flat fee of 51, Yen on delivery at my door. They never contacted me they just fixed it and returned it. However, I received the copy of what they replaced Multiprocessor, 2. You can get it cheaper used that's about 70, Yen no labor. Just thought I'd let you know, -Brian" Brian also questioned if the problem could have been coolant leak related. It's too late now, but if I had an LCS system, I'd have done some internal checks for evidence of a leak before reporting the problem to Apple initially.
Including the 'cover side down' tip noted in red at the top of the page here. If an internal check after disconnecting AC power cord doesn't appear to show any sign of a leak, try taking the side over off and place the tower with open cover side down for a day or two - then check to see if any coolant fluid is seen. And again as noted in red here since fall - every LCS owner should regularly check for leaks to hopefully spot one before it does major damage.
Last week, I discovered my Dual 2. Any attempts to start up the G5 failed, and the G5 smelled like something was burning. We immediately thought the power supply burned out. Upon loading the G5 into our vehicle, we noticed the G5 was leaking coolant. Upon further inspection the Apple repair shop said the power supply may have been damaged by leaking coolant, and the items that needed replacement were the power supply, the processor and the attached liquid cooling system. Unfortunately, we do not have the funds to pay for this repair much less a brand new machine. Our G5 was a build to order, and was manufactured in June On Apple's website, my G5 computer did not fall within the expected Serial number range for the problem with the power supply http: The first technical support person informed me that the product is out of warranty, and elevated the call to a Apple Computer Product Specialist.
Both of the technical support service representatives were very receptive to my inquiry, and a case number has been generated. The request for a service authorization had to be made to the Engineering department with a "medium" priority 3 business day response level. I am hopeful, and cautiously optimistic that this case will be resolved to my satisfaction. Apple will indeed "take care of the cost to repair the unit. I was always a loyal Mac user, but this gives me even one more reason to support this company! Thanks to your website for pointing out the problem, and about other people's success stories with having Apple repair the problem.
It is such a relief to have this problem quickly on it's way to resolution. Thanks again! Like Geoff and others, about a day before the actual occurrence the fans started to increase in speed. That night's use resulted in 5 shutdowns, like going into sleep mode, while typing, but subsequent restarts, by hitting the spacebar.
The last one however, resulted in it not starting up. So I made an appointment with Apple genius bar using my G4 laptop. On pulling out the computer and tilting forward to get at cables, I removed all cables and when I set computer back down level, out of the front of the case and on the floor was a clear puddle of liquid So, I wound up calling my apple on a recommendation from the genius dude, since I mentioned apple had been repairing these for free, for people out of warranty.
The call was relatively painless, initial tech did not have authority to make a repair exemption, so he passed it on to level 2 dude and we talked for a few minutes and he gathered all research about coolant leaks and talked to customer relations. I waited on hold for less than 30 seconds when he came back on to tell me they were just going to replace the computer. Since it was a custom build, I was going to have to retrieve it from Apple store and ship it in. As soon as they see it is being shipped back and my replacement unit is configured, it will be on the way.
D I love Apple.
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This was the right thing to do repair or replace. My guess, they don't have repair parts anymore. Mine was purchased in June originally and was one of the delayed shipping units, so I didn't get it till Sept of ' Shutdown occurred on thursday April 23rd.